Model/ Sahra
Photo/ Shanshan
Assistant/ Yinan

Black and white stools provided by Pascale Theodoly
Black chair ‘T2’ designed by Pascale Theodoly
Brown irregular edge stool ‘Ardue’ designed by Elodie Audureau

L’érrance aux pléonasmes.

Pléonasme: Pleonasm in French, the use of more words than are needed to express a meaning, done either unintentionally or for emphasis.

This winter collection is the second season since the pandemic.

The city where I live has experienced several lockdowns. During this time, the French government introduced measures to adapt to the latest developing situation. I could not help noticing that among ‘essential businesses’ allowed to stay open, clothing had been curiously neglected.

How strange it is---- that no less than 100 years ago, after the world wars, with so little resources, tickets and coupons had been issued to ration the purchase of textiles for everyday needs; Pamphlets were printed, teaching households to ‘reuse’ or ‘recycle’ old clothing or textiles into wearable goods.

I have a vivid image of workers jackets from the late 19th century, the innumerable patches, repeatedly added mending-stitches... At that time, one owned a very limited wardrobe.

We are now living in a completely different world, one where clothing has become abundant and easy to come by. We are indulged by endless choice.

Whilst my passion is to create new garments, I can’t overlook the never-ending consumerism and the waste it leaves behind. This off hand attitude towards clothing is dangerous.

My dilemma was then confronted with the tumultuous arrival of Covid. Suddenly, my world of work was deemed a decoration to modern society. ‘Non-essential to life’, super flu, and to be put aside at a whim.

Has it become what we would call a Pleonasm?

Covid raises as many questions as it does doubts; as an independent designer, running my own atelier, I have to deal with this new reality and the anxiety that it brings.

However, I still have faith in my work. I observe and feel the world, seek beauty in every place, grand or minor, everlasting or fleeting. I express this in my garments, the fabric, my material.

I added extra decoration and details to this collection. Silver buttons everywhere, slits to open, revealing the skin. Pleats, an already important element in my work, are doubled or even quadrupled. If we start pondering the utilities, there will be very few, or even none. When structure meets the appropriate fabric, studied with good proportions, and details added to its various textures, we are still capable of admiring beauty.

And if it becomes a pleonasm, so be it.

Text/Shanshan and Mial